FEATURE 124
Tote and pants created with raregem.We've worked with raregem on numerous occasions to create products together, and this time, we made a call bag and work pants. We spoke to raregem's founder, Ken Nishijo, and his partner and head of the sewing department, Aki Nishino, about the brand, the attention to detail in these items, and why they started making bags in the first place. What is raregem? It is a design and construction company that conceptualizes and creates shops and residential buildings, building them out themselves. It also operates a studio line that develops and produces its own everyday products, mainly bags. (Aki Nishijo: referred to as Aki hereafter) The beginning of bag making. It was in 2011. I wanted to utilize and sew together the leftover leather used to make a vest for myself, like the one worn by Blixa of the Berlin band Einstuürzende Newbauten. Still, it was too thick to sew with the industrial sewing machine I was using at the time. Just then, I happened to walk into a store and came across a Singer sewing machine for extra-thin materials that was used to make horse tack before the war, and they gave it to me. (Ken Nishijo: referred to as Ken hereafter)
With the help of Ken’s aunt, who had had experience sewing at a Maison in Daikanyama when she was young, we were able to use the sewing machine. We began making bags to put the tools we wanted to use at the time. This was the beginning of the studio line. (Aki)
Encounter with canvas. When looking at well-kept vintage bags for reference, I noticed the edge of the fabric had a selvage specification. This is a finish that can only be done with an old shuttle loom. So, I thought I should look for a canvas that was still made with the old machines, which led me to a factory in Kurashiki. It was a world where the machines were running so loudly that you couldn't hear the person next to you. Our fabric would eventually be woven at a sister factory of the headquarters, but the decision to have it made at this factory had to be made quickly. The rough, wild touch and black spots are proof of the unprocessed and undyed, which also gives great texture to it. (Ken)
The meaning of an impressive stitch. Looking at old American videos showing bag production, the craftsmen’s sewing speed is breakneck. I wondered why and found that there was a line woven into the fabric used as a sewing guide. In order to efficiently sew raregem bags produced with a small group, we decided to incorporate the line into the position of 3 cm from both ends and the end of the handles. Although it is meant to improve work efficiency, this reasonable line is the face of the bag and the design. The stitch with the thread connected to the handle is an expression of how to sew it continuously, like a single stroke, to make it efficient. (Aki)
Arrangement unique to this collaboration. 13 oz canvas of highly dense thin linen attached to the bottom of the bag to give a summer-like atmosphere. The combination of the undyed color and gray was inspired by the elegance and cleanliness that DESCENDANT has. A bigger size that can be used for traveling has a zipper and is easy to hang on the shoulder with longer handle straps. (Aki)
I decided to give the bag a try when I traveled by Shinkansen. To my surprise, I was able to fit my iPhone on the top portion of the bag even when zipped up. On the other hand, when fully open, the sides stick together, revealing the inner pocket in a convenient position. This practical design, combined with its adaptability, reassures me that it's a tool that can be enjoyed in various aspects of life. (Ken) First and last pants. We are using a fabric called "Unsaiori," which is a type of Ayaori weaving that was created in Okayama prefecture during the Edo period. It is usually used on the bottom of a tabi and is thin and light but dense and durable. (Aki)
The rise is deep, the hem is straight, the hips are three-dimensional, and the legs are easy to lift without restriction. I like them because it's easy to climb up the stepladders. This fabric was also woven at the Kurashiki headquarters factory mentioned earlier, but unfortunately, the factory went out of business a few years ago, and we took over the remaining material at that time. This makes the Unsaiori fabric a rare and exclusive find and, unfortunately, something we cannot replicate in the same manner ever again.
What is the real pleasure of a collaboration with the brand? When you hear the word "collaboration," you may imagine combining different tastes, such as adding a different flavor to vanilla ice cream. However, it is more complex, and there's a pleasure in experiencing significant changes that occur as if a different chef did it. Right after Studio Line started, the very first product request we got was from Nishiyama-san, and we added WTAPS' red tag, as he had requested. Then we realized that the appearance of the bag suddenly changed, and we got very excited about it because it was something we could never imagine seeing. In particular, it was fun to work with Nishiyama-san because we understood each other just by having casual conversations. (Ken)
What raregem values most with any action. The Studio Line started with the feeling of “family making just the right thing for the family,” and even now, we follow the process closely, from beginning to end, from design to production. This bag was also carefully made with my own hands for DESCENDANT, with whom I have a long relationship. The pattern and fabric of the work pants were handed over and made by DESCENDANT. It’s simple, functional and can be worn anytime, anywhere. I would be happy if people who pick them up keep them in their wardrobe for many years to come. (Aki)
Collaboration products with raregem will be available at all DESCENDANT stores and dealers from Thursday, 7/8.
*All prices are tax-included.
Ken Nishijo
Born in Tokyo in 1967, he founded raregem in 1995. He started with custom furniture production and currently does everything from design to the construction of stores and homes. Descendant Tokyo, which recently opened, was also designed by him. In addition, they develop their own products around everyday use, focusing on bags.www.raregem.co.jp