DESCENDANT

Just west of Waikiki, past Ala Moana, you’ll find Kaka’ako, one of the fastest-growing areas in Hawaiʻi today. Once a warehouse district, it has now become a vibrant neighborhood undergoing redevelopment. And it’s here where you will find Vein at Kaka’ako, a fusion restaurant known for its delicious cuisine.

I became friends with Chef Dell through my cousin, Sean, who’s a Hawai’i local. Since then, whenever I visit Hawai’i, we go fishing, have barbecues, and spend time together as family.

Dell has overseen the first-class menu for Hawaiian Airlines. In Hawai’i, local companies place great value on supporting and relying on local talent.

Dell is full of energy with this loud voice and powerful presence. Just being around him lifts your spirits, and when you eat the food he creates, you feel recharged from the inside out. Vein’s signature dishes include grilled Spanish octopus and roasted bone marrow with uni butter. The mushroom risotto is also outstanding.

Dell loves Japan. On this particular day, he had just returned from a trip to Japan, yet came straight to the restaurant and jumped right into prep work. “Prep time is like a war zone!” he said with a laugh. Still, it was impressive to see how cheerful the staff were as they worked.

Dell also runs another spot called “Dell’s Kitchen & Bakery,” which serves plate lunches and baked goods. He’s done extensive research on Japanese-style set meals and breads, creating dishes that satisfy the Hawaiian local palate. The menu features familiar Japanese items like karaage, tonkatsu, and gyudon, while the bakery serves up anpan, curry bread, and even matcha drinks.

After leaving Vein, I also got to see some local friends in Hawai’i, including their kids and partners. Thanks to my cousin Sean, I now have a lot of “ohana” (family) in Hawai’i.

Elise, daughter of Steve, who runs the tattoo studio “Working Class Tattoo” in Kaimuki.

Jessica, the partner of Jared, who works at FITTED with Keola. The two of them visit Japan around October every year.

Rustin, son of Sean’s long-time friend, came with his girlfriend.

Popo, daughter of Keola from FITTED.

Tetsu Nishiyama